Following the Gold Rush trail

Day 3 = May 26, 2011

            The Buckley Valley greets us with a light drizzle. Our drive through picturesque Smithers we had only a brief glimpse of the snow capped mountains that surround the town.  After Smithers with great expectations I await our arrival in Evelyn, B.C.  Camera in hand, Henry instructed to slow down to take a picture of Evelyn and the Evelyn Hwy sign.  Unfortunately Henry and I must have blinked at the same time, for we missed the township of Evelyn.  Ghees, even the GPS had an Evelyn, and I think I might have seen three houses, and a street sign.

            Through the rain we enjoy peaks at the Babine Mountain Range, as yesterday, the flood threat is high in the area, the rivers, gushing full with spring run off, fields saturated with water, cattle clustering on high ground.

            In the afternoon we arrive at Stewart. At the head of the Portland canal, on the south end of the American Panhandle.   Stewart, BC and Hyder, Alaska used to have a population of 10,000. Now there are 699 in Stewart and 100 in Hyder.  This might be the only place where Americans come to Canada to fill up on gas, as the only gas station is the Petro Canada in Stewart.   There is now a customs stop entering Hyder Alaska, but there is one upon return to Stewart. 

Bear glacier

     We decide to do the self guided Auto tour of Glacier Highway and Salmon Glacier.  Leaving Tico and trailer parked on the campsite we set off. We enter Hyder (a ghost town) which is surrounded by majestic glacier crowned peaks, many exceeding 1800 metres. Some of the largest glaciers in south-eastern Alaska wind among the peaks and ridges of the Salmon Valley. Past Hyder along the narrow, gravel road we come to Fish Creek which has the Bear Rive interpretive Centre.  Bears, both black and Grizzly come here to eat salmon during spawning.  Henry and I walk along the boardwalk but not a bear in sight. We travel along the road narrows, with endless potholes and wash outs.  The elevation rises and now we have a wall of snow on the side easily 10 feet high.  Through windy sections and evidence of damaging avalanches we make it to the top of the summit.  We enjoy a majestic view of the Salmon Glacier, Canada’s fifth largest glacier which is a remnant of the last great age of glaciers the Fraser Glaciations period, reached its peak around 14,000 years ago, covering much of British Columbia and Alaska, with the exception of the Queen Charlotte Ranges and parts of the Rocky Mountains.

 

            A couple of people had mentioned that the fish n chips in Hyder was not to be missed.  Having spoken to locals, they recommend the Glacier Inn.  The walls are covered with money bills, signed by visiting guests, on plastered on the walls.  The bills date back to the 1950’s when the Glacier Inn was opened.  Henry and I mosey on up to the bar and have an Alaskan Pilzner.  We than enjoy a wonderful dinner of freshly caught Halibut.  We chat with other tourist from Germany, and encourage them to enjoy the halibut.  This Inn is known for Hyderizing its guest, since Henry is driving, Evelyn gets hyderized.  Yikes, these Alaskans aren’t whimps.  The bartender puts down a shot, will not tell you what it is and instructs you not to smell or taste but only to down it.  She also supplies a glass of water to put out the fire.  After downing the 150 proof alcohol, she hands me my certificate that I have been hyderized.   We cross the border back into Canada and I am out like a light.