RETURN TRIP- DAY ONE UP THE DEMPSTER.

 Inuvik to Rock River Campground 

Local traffice on the Dempster Hwy. we gave him the right of way

I sure am glad I am not walking or biking

The advice given to everyone about travelling the Dempster is to carry extra tires.   Good Advice!  A trailer tire is low so we have it checked out before departure.  I small metal splinter was in it.  We have the trailer tire fixed before departing Inuvik.  The continuing light drizzle has made the road slick, a foot deep mud and the going is slow.   We once again see the German man, Andreas Eller who is walking.  We stop to offer him a beer.  He tells us he is out of water, could not find a source the last couple of days.  We fill is water reservoir.  He is also in severe pain and asks if we have anything that would help.  His leg has worsened and both are now hurting.   From his description sounded like shin splits to me.  He thinks it is from pulling the cart which has no braking system up and down so many hills.  All I had was some deep cold crème and Advil to give him.  He had considered walking less every day, but is so fed up with the mosquitoes and the lack of being able to find a dry place to sleep that he is pushing forward and hopes to arrive in Inuvik by Thursday.  He is very grateful for the help and takes a photo of our trailer as we leave.     Not long after we see a biker and think it is Peer, but no it is a man from Spain who is also biking the Dempster hwy.  He seems to be okay and rushed, didn’t really want to chat.
We cross back over the Mackenzie by ferry.  The rain has worsened the dirt ramp, so the workers had to lay down boards for Henry to get the trailer on board. 

Mackenzie River

Not long afterwards we see Peer on his bike.  He did not cover as much ground as I had expected.  He was very happy to see us again.  Henry also gave him a beer for later that evening, but to our surprise he opened the can and downed it right away.  He said he took a break the day before because of the rain.  He was no longer planning on biking back, stating that the conditions were just too harsh.  The mud on the road clogs on his wheels and the mosquitoes are simply unbearable.  He is exhausted by it all.

 I do not really understand what it is that drives people to undertake such a daunting task. 

Calcium Chloride just put down on road

We arrive at our camp spot at River Rock.  Beautiful setting, but we are immediately attacked by millions of mosquitoes, they are just beyond belief.  Henry makes a fire, trying to chase them away, but to no avail.   We are the only guests for the night in this wilderness setting.  The rain persists so we call it an early night.



DAY TWO DOWN THE DEMPSTER  

Rock River to Tombstone National Park


  Sunset 2:02 Sunrise  2: 17 

It rained all night, but the morning greets us with clear blue skies. We are fortunate to not need to leave the trailer till be hit the road.   It seems the mosquitoes like sun as much as rain and they are out in full force.  When I walked Tico the mosquitoes tried to land in my eyes, I had to put on the sun glasses.  Tico also realizes these walks are not about exercise but just getting down to business.
The visibility on our drive is fabulous and I am happy because this is the part we had clouds going down.  However the rain has turned to roads into a slick soft muddy surface.  It takes Henry’s total concentration to keep the truck and trailer moving ahead.  The mud from the tires splatters up to our trucks windshield.  I spend my time enjoying the scenery in between swatting mosquitoes.

We decide to stop of the Artic Circle mark again and take some more pictures. There are two ladies from Anchorage on motorcycles there.  They have had enough of the road conditions and are headed back.

We stop at Eagles’ Plain to fill up.  The phone lines are down, so cash only.  We empty both wallets and come up with just enough for a fill. $209.  Yes, it is expensive up north. 

Gas Pumps at Eagles Plain

  We drive merrily on our way when suddenly Henry hits the brakes and swears.  Smoke coming from the back of the trailer.    Unhook and back to Eagles Plains.  13 kilometres.    The Dempster deserves its reputation.   Henry had taken a picture of the damaged axel and the mechanic things it is not to bad. 

broken down on the Dempster

He follows us back to the broken down trailer and within 1 ½ hours we are back on the road.  The  screw/ bolt had fallen out, dropped the axel.  It also cost us a tire.  All in all,  if you have to break down on a 737 kilometre dirt road with only one service station on it, how lucky were we to break down within 14 kilometres of it and for the mechanic to have the right bolt & bushing to fix it.        

Airstrip on highway

Dempster Hwy = Landing strip

 

 We were aiming to make to Tombstone Territorial Park for the night, so we still had a long drive on very bad road conditions.  The sun was shining and the view of the Ogilvie’s was beautiful.  When we finally reach the Tombstone Territorial Park, is starts to rain and Henry is once again in the mud making a fire and roasting potatoes.  During dinner he says to me only 74 more kilometres to go.  I ask so you have finally had enough.  He says, “1500 kilometres of the dirt, gravel, dust is enough”   Hallelujah!

DAY THREE:    TOMBSTONE TO DAWSON CITY   

SUNRISE 3:53 SUNSET 12:41 

 HENRY’S BIRTHDAY  July 6

Tico wakes me and I see the sunshine coming in.  Yeah the muddy road might dry a bit. Shortly after, the 61 year old rises to more rain.  I guess it will be another hard drive.   

where did that Hare go?

During my walk with Tico he smells something and the hunt is on.  He wildly follows the trail and within 15 minutes I spot a Hare sitting eating grass, by the time Tico spots it, the hare had made a run for it into the bushes.  Perfect ending.   Tico had an exciting walk and no hare was caught.  My kind of hunting. 

Our Campsite in Tombstone Territorial Park 

We are pleasantly surprised this part of the road is now much better then when we first started this adventure and the drive out is ways.  Ever day we saw several maintenance crews grading the road.  The conditions are challenging and ever changing, but the do a good job trying to keep it drivable.

When we get back to Dawson City we spend 2 hours cleaning the trailer from the outside and leave the truck and inside of trailer for the next day. 

Charcoal Creek, Tombstone Territorial Park

Conclusion on having travelled the Demspter:
The road brings you through some of the most beautiful country side.  But the journey was as much about the people we met along the way and at the end, as it was about the beautiful country side.
 It is what memories are made from.  

Truck and trailer after the Demspter Hwy

Henry spendinghis birthday washing trailer, truck will be done next day, too much work